Welcome back to All About Jewelry Wire! This is Part 5 of a series unraveling all the important aspects of choosing the right jewelry wire for your projects. We have covered different wire gauge measuring systems, wire hardness, different wire shapes and materials for jewelry wire.
Today we’re going to cover which gauges of wire are generally used for which kinds of jewelry making projects. It’s important to keep in mind all the other factors as well – remember that not all materials behave the same way or are measured with the same wire gauge system.
And of course, these are not so much rules but general guidelines to follow if you’re just starting out. There usually is a good reason why certain sizes are used for certain projects so if you’re a wire working newbie this is a great place to start to avoid a little of the typical beginner’s trial and error frustrations :)
First, remember that the smaller the number, the larger the wire. Here’s our handy dandy wire gauge size chart for visual reference:
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Which Gauge Jewelry Wire to Use for What?
28 – 30 gauge
This wire is tiny and fine, like thread. It can become kinked and break easily, so it is best to work slowly with these small gauges of wire. At this size, the temper (or hardness) of the wire doesn’t really mean much as it is so fine that it’s easily pliable. 28 – 30 gauge wire is used for:
• coiling
• weaving
• knitting / crocheting / viking knitting
• 28 gauge wire can also be used for wire wrapping very small light beads, though the finished wraps will be very delicate and could bend and break quite easily.
These small wires are not suitable as structure wires (to wrap other wire around), nor should they be used for open loop links. Use regular or fine tipped jewelry making tools to shape and cut.
26 gauge
26 gauge wire is still quite fine but is relatively strong. It is generally used for:
• coiling
• weaving
• knitting / crocheting
• wire wrapping (wrapped loops) small beads and briolettes
• wrapping around stones
• balled headpins
26 gauge wire can be shaped with the use of regular or fine tipped jewelry making tools. It should not be used as structure wire or open loop links.
24 gauge
24 gauge wire is a very versatile wire and is one I buy and use in great quantities. 24 gauge wire can be used for:
• coiling
• weaving
• binding
• spirals
• headpins
• wirewrapped links, wrapping briolettes and other stones
• frames*
• small jump rings
• head pins
• wire settings for small stones
24 gauge wire is not recommended for open link chains in most cases. It can be used as a frame to wrap smaller wire around in some applications* – like earrings, when the finished piece is not structural. It can be shaped by hand and with the use of regular jewelry making tools.
22 and 21 gauge
• wirewrapped links
• open link chains (for light or small stones)
• earwires
• headpins, eyepins
• jump rings
• spirals
• frames
• small clasps
• wire settings for small to medium stones
• 21 gauge is preferred by many for prong settings and earwires
21 and 22 gauge wire can be shaped by hand and with the use of regular jewelry making tools.
Shop 21 and 22 gauge jewelry wire
20 gauge
• earwires
• hoop earrings
• frames
• spirals
• headpins, eyepins
• open link chains
• delicate clasps, double wrapped hooks
• jump rings, split rings
• rings
• wire settings for medium stones
• bails for light stones
20 gauge wire is also good for a variety of other delicate handcrafted findings, like links or looped chandelier earring components. It can be shaped by hand and with the use of regular jewelry making tools.
18 gauge
• bails
• large jump rings, chainmaille jewelry
• frames / structure wire
• bracelets
• rings
• delicate clasps
• neck collars
• other handmade components
18 gauge wire can be shaped by hand and with the use of regular jewelry making tools (for shaping and cutting)
16 gauge
• frames / structure wire
• clasps
• thick jump rings, chainmaille jewelry
• rings
• bracelets, cuffs, bangles
• neck collars
16 gauge wire may be available in either dead soft of half hard temper in some materials. It can require heavy duty jewelry making tools for shaping and cutting.
14 gauge
• clasps
• thick jump rings
• neck collars
• rings
• bracelets, cuffs, bangles
• frames / structure wire
14 gauge wire is often only available in dead soft temper in most materials. It may require some heavy duty jewelry making tools for shaping and cutting.
12 gauge
• neck collars
• bracelets, cuffs, bangles
• rings
• frames / structure wire
12 gauge wire is usually only available in dead soft temper. It may require heavy duty jewelry making tools for shaping and cutting.
Still want more information about choosing jewelry wire? This entire series is dedicated to helping you know exactly which wire you need for your project:
Thank you soo much for this useful information really appreciate it!
My pleasure! So glad you found it helpful :) Thanks so much for visiting!
Thank you so much for the info! I recently came into some heavy-duty scrap wire, and thanks to your post, I know the gauge and have some ideas of what to do with it. :D
hello,
merci beaucoup c’est super de mettre ces informations tres utiles ! bravo , continuez, je suis debutante et cela m’aide beaucoup.
estelle
super useful thanks – my bullion dealer sells wire by mm – so it’s really handy to have your conversion too. Cheers!
Love how useful this is for beginners and more experienced!
Thank you Jane! I’m so glad you found this jewelry wire gauge guide helpful!
What is the gauge on the picture that looks like the ? mark? It looks like stamped metal and I can’t seem to find this kind only rounded/smooth wire, thanks
Hi Debbie!
Thanks so much for your question. The wire I used for the question mark is 14 gauge round wire that I formed into shape and then hammered to give it that look. Hammering wire is really fun – you should give it a go :)
~ Jessica
what type of wire do use to hammer flat. is it dead soft, half soft? thanks!!!
Hi Melissa!
I almost always use half hard wire. You can certainly use dead soft, but you will have more hammering to do to harden it up (see my post on ‘work hardening’ wire if you need more info).
The benefit to using dead soft wire would be if you are making intricate shapes with the wire before hammering it, so that it’s easier to bend into those shapes. If not, save yourself the trouble and go with half hard :)
Thanks so much for your question!
~ Jessica
What great tutorials. You answered so many questions I had. I hope to learn more from you as I explore working with wire to make jewelry.
Hi Barbara!
So glad to hear that! Thank you so much for visiting. Let me know if you have any further questions along the way!
~Jessica
This has been an exquisite find for me as a new crafter. I have been trying on my own through trial and error, and needless to say, throwing a lot of good material away by my own errors. I appreciate all the information ya’ll have compiled for people like myself. It is very disappointing to get a design all ready, and feeling like you have it under control, and then something snapping and falling apart. I will certainly be pointing other newbies in this direction for help in what to buy for what creations they are attempting to make. Thank you again for all the help! Made me evening to know I have somewhere to go to get a little help with buying choices, and making the right choice. Happy days! Blessed Be to those who open their hearts to help others just because they have a good heart, and no other motive. Not common all the time.
Hi Roberta!
Please forgive my terribly delayed reply – I seemed to have missed a lot of comments. I’m so sorry!
Thank you so much for visiting and for your kind words. I am so glad this was useful to you! I do know how disappointing it is to put your heart into a design for it to bend and break, and that’s really a big reason I wanted to put all this info together. I see a lot of beginners struggling with this. And I’ve been there too!
Please let me know if you have any questions as you get further along in your wire wrapping journey!
~ Jess
Thanks for all the clear information, Jess. What I’m wondering now is how many of the gauges can be worked on using the basic tools? At what point do I need a stronger set of tools? The thicker gauges are pretty and I don’t want to wreck my beginner’s tools.
Oops! found it! In fact summing up, we can safely use regular tools through gauge 18. Higher gauges require more sturdy tools… Anything else we should remember à propos ?
Thanks Judy
Thanks for your question, Judy! Some tools might have different recommendations but that’s a good rule of thumb. The tips of your tools (round nose, chain nose, + flush cutters) will be able to handle smaller gauges than the middle or back of the tools’ jaws so there is a little bit more of a range. The really good tools should tell you specifically the range of gauges recommended for use with the tips and the range for the rest of the tool.
Generally it’s good practice to only use the fine tips of your tools (for round nose, chain nose, and flush cutters) only when necessary. So if you have the option of using the middle or back of your flush cutter jaws to cut a piece of wire, that’s a good habit to get into, so you can preserve the tips for when you need to really snip up close and in tight spots.
I don’t know that this is a written rule anywhere but I try to look at the size of the wire and if it’s bigger than the tips of my tools I slide it down to where the tool is about the same or a little bit thicker than the wire. I think that’s a pretty good guideline for keeping your tools at their best!
I am doing my ‘ground work first and am so glad to have found you.
I am up to buying the wire and of course need to know what is best for what. Your explanation of each size is very easy to understand but of course, that is not all there is to it. Looking forward to many happy days learning how to creat lovely goodies and no doubt, stuff-ups.
Shayna.
Hi Shayna!
So glad you found this helpful and I hope you’ve learned a bit from the lessons in the wire wrapping crash course as well!
Jess
Awesome!!!!! Thank you so much for all this valuable info!
This really help me, an others thank you
So I have some gemstone rondelles that I want to use to make a connector bar to attach to a chain.. It says I can only use 26/28 but will these be to fine a fragile for me to make a loop etc.. Will it break!?
Hi Claire!
Thanks so much for your question! I think 28g would definitely be too fine for that but I have used 26g before in a bar style centerpiece with some beautiful tiny rubies, though the piece wasn’t very long. (The longer the bar the more easily it will bend out of shape). I’d say try it and see if you’re comfortable with how flexible it is!
I rarely use 28 gauge for links necklaces and bracelets but I do use it often for earrings. It’s true that it’s very delicate but it’s definitely ok for dangles (you can make your own headpins or purchase some that are 28g) and for wire wrapping briolettes. 26 gauge is still pretty delicate but I still use it occasionally for links in necklaces and bracelets (and certainly ok for dangles and earrings as well).
If you do have trouble with your wire breaking as you’re wrapping, it’s most likely due to the material being too brittle. Some types of wire are just less forgiving as you work them with your tools. Generally you’ll have better luck with metals like copper and sterling silver as opposed to craft wires which are usually alloyed base metals.
Hope that helps!
~ Jess
Hello…I am making Pendants that you Cross Stitch. The size of the hole is 4mm here is the description: Material: Wood
Size: Size:53mmx40mm(2 1/8″x1 5/8″)
Hole Size:4mm( 1/8″)
Thickness:3mm( 1/8″)
I am really not sure what size jump ring to use. I would assume 3mm but unsure of the guage. I would appreciate your input. Thank you
Hi Michelle! I think 20 gauge or 18 gauge are both a decent size jump ring for a pendant. The larger size (18 gauge) will be the more sturdy of the two. 3mm may not be big enough in diameter if you are going to want to thread a cord necklace through the jump ring as well as attaching it to the pendant – something to keep in mind! Hope that helps; I hope you have fun with your cross-stitch creation – sounds fun!
ebay.com/itm/10PCs-JM-Natural-Rhombus-Multi-hole-Wooden-Pendant-For-Counted-Cross-Stitch-Kit-/152190349183?hash=item236f406f7f:g:OlUAAOSwyLlXn~0o
Here is the link to show you the kind I am working on. I am really struggling on the gauge part.
Those are really cool and that helps a lot, thanks! I would say choose a jump ring 6mm in diameter or larger (depending on what you want to hang the pendant from) and with a thickness of 20 or 18 gauge. 18 gauge will be the sturdier of the two. Does that help? Hope so!
Hi if the hole is only 4mm how could I get a 6mm thru it? Thanks
Sorry – I should have explained! The gauge of the jump ring is the thickness of the metal that makes up the ring – that’s the part that matters for the 4mm hole you’re talking about.
18 gauge is about 1mm thick and 20 gauge is .8mm thick, so both of those will fit through the 4mm hole in your pendant easily.
When you talk about a 6mm jump ring that’s the diameter of the ring itself, usually the measurement of the inside of the ring – the circle part. I hope that clears things up! You can also check out this post for more info about jump rings and how to use them: https://jewelrytutorialhq.com/jump-rings-right-way/
OMG! That is the most complete simply explained article on wire! I am a newby and now I feel a bit more confident buying, using, and knowing the wire in projects… A thousand thanks yous is not enough
Thank you so much yes I am a newbe your information has been really helpful I feel I can go and buy some wire now thank you.
Hi, Jessica!! I am one that has to read everything I can find, from getting a pet to making jewelry projects, before I dive in. Your blog, will save me, and anyone who reads it, many headaches in the long run. I make my own crystal bracelets, necklaces and earrings, sometimes adding a gemstone or two, nothing special. I’ve decided to venture into making my own ear wires to start with, for those earrings, to start. As I was searching for information on different wire gauges which I thought was all I needed, I found your blog!! I then learned there was a heck of a lot to know.. You’ve saved my life and more importantly, tons of mistakes and money!! Not only did I find the information I was looking for about different gauges but, I found tons more like wire shapes, which wire to use for which project, what tools to use, work hardening, but also and very importantly the difference between the hardness or lack thereof in wire!! This blog is an invaluable tool for ANYONE looking to get into jewelry making of any kind. Thank you for putting this information out there for people like me, just starting to figure things out. I am going to read and reread it all. I love learning new things. There is a lot to learn here but with your help, people like me can figure it out. I see that still, I have a very long way to go.. I want you to know how grateful I am to find all of this information here, on your blog!! You rock!!
superb nformative and realy helpfull and detailed article for begginers….i got all and everything what i want to know abt Jewellery wires…now its not confusing for me…..after reading your different posts now i am very clear abt what kind of Jewellery wire/which shape/material/gauge i have to buy. Thanku so much Jessica..
Thank you
I thinking to learn this beautiful profession , your information is very helpful ,
Many thanks
Thanks for making this info available
Thank you so much. This information is so valuable and needed for beginners like myself now that I know what different types of wires are used for what project. Keep up the good work will continue to follow.
Which Gauge is best for making wire cake toppers, such as words or flowers etc.?
Hi MrsT!
What a fun question! I would say you could use 20, 18, or even 16 gauge. 20 gauge would be the smallest and easiest to work with, but in terms of how well it will show up from several feet away – probably not so much. Working with the 16 gauge would take a little more practice but if you make sure to use only soft wire you’ll have better luck and it would stand out better. And just a little disclaimer my attorney would want me to include is to keep in mind that certain materials may not be food safe so you may not want the wire to stick directly into the cake.
For anyone else reading this who may want to make small jewelry with words in wire: 22 or 20 gauge are probably your best bet!
Thanks for stopping by!
Jess
How very generous and helpful of you. I’m not into this yet but I’m saving it for future reference. Thx